ARGYLE & OXFORD MOOD SWINGS LOOKBOOK

PORTFOLIO.1707

ARGYLE&OXFORD FOR THE GOODS DEPT COLLECTION

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by Jo Reiner Widjaja

 

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NIKICIO ANSWERS TO WAR

PORTFOLIO.1707

NIKICIO MIXTER FALL WINTER 2012

i.s.1707

by Jo Reiner Widjaja

IMAGE COURTESY OF MEUTIA ANANDA OF ANTIJITTERS

It was a loft-like space, demure colors of white and light cream parquets dominates the room, and a sense of sheer chills and rad style was in the air, the Nikicio Fall Winter 2012 Mixte collection show is about to start. A ridiculously amount of mad-style people have already started arriving, filling in all the white chairs minute by minute from Fahrani Empel, Alexsander Siregar, Leonard Theosabrata, to Cynthia Wirjono and many more attended this cult-like event. Editors, bloggers, models all pays tribute to another monumental presentation by Nina Nikicio herself whilst being swept away by hypnotic tunes courtesy of DJ Innoceroze (dare we say it; Nina's current lover). Yes it was an event like no other, people stood in line to be escorted in, and we are there to report it all. Girls in black fitted outfits escorted us to our seats, they seemed a little bit more mature than what a typical Nikicio's girls usually look like, they dressed in a subtle refined style rather than in the urban street wear vibe that we usually identify them as. As soon as we enter the space we noticed a DJ booth standing in the middle of the room with a placard uttering the label name 'Nikicio' hanging above it, guests are greeted by sweet treats of macarons and cream cake delights in a ocean-like colors courtesy of iscaketory, and a generous gift bag filled with Clara Magazine, Nylon Magazine, and the current lookbook for Nikicio's Mixte; WAR! collection was also there to greet us. People in exciting outfits whilst mingling with one another were interviewed by reporters of various magazines and television station,  we were photographed at full capacity, chatters and laughs were in the atmosphere with an  upbeat tune in the background playing, not long after that the show started, with a greet from Leonard Theosabrata.  

Dalam kehiruk-pirukan bincangan dan lantunan musik upbeat yang ada, ruangan bernuansa loft tersebut telihat jelas telah dipenuhi oleh antusiasme para tamu yang telah hadir. Menantikan debut koleksi musim gugur Mixte 2012, ruangan kecil yang didominasi warna putih dan cokelat krim muda tersebut telah dipersempit oleh keberadaan beragam media dan pecinta lini berkenamaan Nikicio tersebut, lini yang sesaat lagi  akan meluncurkan koleksi bertajuk; War. Sejumlah besar individu ternama pun telah berdatangan untuk acara pagelaran mode tersebut dimulai dari Fahrani Empel, Alexander Siregar, Leonard Theosabrata, hingga Cynthia Wirjono, dan banyak tamu kenamaan lainnya hadir untuk memberikan salut terhadap peluncuran koleksi terbaru Nina Nikicio. Sesaat setelah kami hadir di venue kami pun dapat menyaksikan sejumlah individu berpakaian serba hitam, wanita-wanita tersebut pun mempersilahkan dan menuntun kami ke bangku kami masing-masing, The Nikicio Girls itu-lah bagaimana kami menyebut wanita-wanita tersebut, di dalam setiap pagelaran modenya Nina selalu meminta sejumlah wanita ini untuk berpakaian ala Nikicio, tetapi entah mengapa pada kesempatan ini mereka terlihat berpenampilan lebih dewasa dari sebelumnya yang acap kali terlihat lebih muda dengan pakaian street wear mereka. Seiring dengan berjalannya waktu semakin banyak tamu berdatangan, mereka datang dengan segala pesona ragam susunan pakaian yang mereka kenakan, mereka berbincang seiring diabadikan dalam foto, dan mereka pun menyicipi berbagai jenis sajian manis dari iscaketory. Sesaat kami menjumpai kursi kami, kami pun disambut oleh sebuah parcel bag berisikan berbagai eksemplar majalah mode, seiring kami bersilaturahmi dan berbincang, kami pun kemudian disambut oleh Leonard Theosabata,yang menandakan bahwa pertunjukan akan segera dimulai.  

The show started with an all white ensemble, studded denim shorts paired with a white leather biker jacket, and what seemed to be a white chiffon shirt, the look were accessorized with the models in a very regal emotion, their strut and look was masculine and chilled, the idea was very clear; a strong and statement walk to represent a strong and statement collection. Moreover the idea has even come across to the make up, the make up were natural but we were able to see that they have conceal a part of the models eyebrow and then they arched it a little further, to create this very rough and masculine look, almost all of the models have a perfectly straighten hair which at some point they all look like Nina herself or at least, a rendition of her alter ego as this dark and masculine creature. The feel that is felt through out the entire collection were; strong, subtle, mature, statement pieces, with a masculine appeal. As the show progressed the color scheme of the collection changes from white, to dusty grey, a hint of blue, and black. We were also satisfied by Nikicio's (now infamous) black water prints which is inspired by Evelyn Pritts 'Ocean Waves', and several hint of blue plaid prints, the pieces are destined to be a cult trend, biker jackets, distressed denim, and silk blazers and vest were seen, the look that will also rock the trend is the sleeveless look, from silk shirts, to biker jackets, to the leather vest all seem to embodies a sleeveless trend. We might we say that we are completely in awe with the idea of these 'sleeveless' look Nina tried to project, especially when it is incorporate with that ultra rad black water prints, some are also incorporated with a metallic materials that are almost holographic. Other than giving us uber cool jackets, blazers, and vest, Nina also gave us a lot of shorts, and tailored pants with printed trimmings and hemline, other than that we also see a lot of top hang awkwardly on the body, making the pieces very niche and desirable.  Staying true to the concept of Mixte, the collection feels so androgynous, from a straight cut tailored silk pants in prints, to an oversized 'Hell is Empty' t-shirts, it all seems so urban and masculine chic!   

Tampilan pertama yang diperlihatkan merupakan sebuah outfit yang terdiri dari susunan pakaian berwarna serba putih, sebuah biker jacket berdetail zipper putih dipadukan dengan sebuah celana denim berdetailkan studs, yang dipasangkan dengan kemeja berbahan chiffon putih. Penampilan yang ada terlihat begitu segar dengan daya tarik klinis yang diberikan terutama ketika para model yang ada berjalan dengan raut wajah yang regal dan dengan alur jalan yang begitu kuat dan maskulin, seluruh penampilan tersebut memberikan tanda awal bagi nuansa koleksi yang akan dipersembahkan Nina. Kuat. Maskulin. Dan memberikan pernyataan. Tata rias wajah para model pun merefleksikan nuansa tersebut, tata rias alamiah tetapi diberikan sedikit daya tarik oleh alis yang diperpanjang dan dipertajam dan hampir seluruh peragawati yang ada memiliki rambut yang diluruskan, hal ini membuat sehingga seluruhnya terlihat menyerupai Nina Nikicio sendiri, atau setidaknya sebuah interpertasi dari Nina Nikicio sebagai mahluk kuat yang maskulin. Strong, subtle, mature, statement pieces, with masculine appeal itulah yang kami rasakan. Dan seiring pertunjukan berjalan, skema warna dari koleksi Nina pun berganti, dari putih, hingga ke abu-abu kelam, sedikit sentuhan biru, hingga menjadi kehitaman, kami pun dipuaskan oleh pola prints yang disajikan oleh Nina, pola air berwarna hitam dengan sedikit pola plaid berwarna kebiruan gelap. Potongan-potongan pakaian yang ada seakan begitu hidup dalam tren, biker jackets, distressed denim, dan blazer berbahan sutra dan rompi sutra terlihat dalam koleksi ini. Tren yang telihat pun merupakan penampilan 'tanpa lengan' atau sleeveless yang terlihat pada jaket, dan rompi yang ada. Tren lain yang terlihat merupakan berbagai celana yang telah dijahit sempurna, dan berbagai celana pendek dengan trimming bercorak 'dark water' pun hadir.

IMAGE COURTESY OF NIKICIO PERSONAL ARCHIVE BY MEUTIA ANANDA

'War' is the concept that Nina tried to uphold in this collection, the embodiment of pieces that will empower women with the strength of how she herself is willing to go to war, in defense of her stance and of romance, but most importantly of her existence. Nina has successfully  renounce and consume herself with femininity of puristic nature, which generates from such fine interpretation of clinical jackets, and asymmetrical top pieces in knit, wool, and silk. All the pieces were also presented in pairing with an out of this world eyewear by Cast Eyewear; a line of shades with model Fahrani Empel as the creative director. At the same time the clothes are also paired with wedges and heels in all forms and colors; black, dusty grey, and dark blue. It was a celebration at a glorious scale, and it seems obvious where the inspiration of 'war' comes from; everyday many women dress in confusion and pressure, whether the clothes will make them look better or not, be it physical, emotional, or imaginary, a war is a war. And to answer that state of troublesome 'war of fashion' Nikicio provides an answer, with her signature of effortless chic every piece makes a statement,  it made everything in pair looks fashion forward and now women would not have to worry for with minimum effort they are able to look their best. May what you have on your back, in all honesty, bring you victory. 

'War' merupakan konsep yang Nina usung pada koleksi ini, sebuah koleksi yang dapat mejadi perwujudan energi semangat bagi wanita untuk dapat maju dan berperang, willing to go to war, in defense of her stance and of romance, but most importantly of her existance. Nina dapat dikatakan telah berhasil dalam mendeklarasikan dan menbiarkan dirinya dikonsumsi oleh sisi feminim yang murni, dimana hal ini terlihat dan muncul dari sisi klinis pakaian yang ditampilkan dan dari pakaian asimetris dengan berbagai bahan seperti; rajutan, wol, sutra. Seluruh pakaian yang ada dipersembahkan dengan aksesoris kacamata hitam yang begitu edgy karya Cast Eyewear. Pertunjukan ini merupakan sebuah perayaan besar dan telihat dengan jelas dimana inspirasi yang ada berasal banyak wanita sering kali merasa tertekan dalam kebutuhan mereka untuk berpakaian dan mereka pun bergulat dalam 'pertempuran' tersebut, be it physical, emotional, or imaginary, a war is a war. Dan untuk menjawab kebutuhan tersebut Nikicio pun menawarkan keahliannya dalam menciptakan pakaian yang terlihat begitu chic dengan usaha yang minimal sehingga setiap wanita dapat berpakaian dengan daya tarik yang memikat tanpa harus bersusah payah. May what you have on your back, in all honesty, bring you victory. 

 ALEXSANDER SIREGAR

 PRINKA CASSY 

 CYNTHIA WIRJONO OF THE GOODS DEPT

 PRATIDINA RATNANGGANI OF THE GOODS DEPT

 IMAGE COURTESY OF LULA SHOES AND COSMO GIRL

THE BLOGGERS; JO REINER OF NO1707, SARA OF SARTOB, MICHELLE OF SKINNY BARBIE, TAMARA EMILLIA, RENNY OF EJIREJI

THE BLOGGERS

VIDEO COURTESY OF RANDI WINARBISONO

It's a sin not to share the savviness of these indie talents with the rest of the world.

So. Feel free to explore.exploit.and express your brain out.

explore.exploit.express

i.s.1707

THE MIXOLOGIST OF URBAN WEAR

PORTFOLIO.1707

JAN/SOBER MIX OF TAILORED AND STREET LOOK

i.s.1707

by Jo Reiner Widjaja

We cannot deny our longing and deep fascination towards both street-wear outfits and refined tailored looks, but so very often these two very distinctive styles seem to clash with one another. With street-wear, people tend to look so casual and down to earth in their own mod forward urban way, whilst if they use something that is finely tailored they tend to look too dressed up for up-scale events. This fact is what drives us every now and then to look for ground breaking local labels that are able to provide us with the right mix of this two styles, a hybrid (you may call it) between a refined tailored look with the flair of street-wear casual, all targeted for you self proclaim urban guys everywhere, and we are proud to say that Jan/Sober has successfully lived up to that expectation. How men are able to dress in tailored pieces but are still able to make it look like they are effortlessly styled is hard, but this particular brand has break that belief. Jan/Sober has able consistently to made street wears look tailored, or vice versa the right amount of these two styles are mixed up into a truly acceptable collection. Jan/Sober the mixologist of urban street-wear. You could see their products and stockist right here and here.

Bubs and babes, ingin tahu dua gaya pakaian apa yang selalu membuat kami antusias? Dua gaya berpakaian yang yang selalu menarik perhatian kami? Well, kedua gaya tersebut merupakan pakaian bergaya street style dan formal-wear dengan tailoring yang sempurna. Yup, kedua gaya berpakaian ini selalu memikat hati kami dengan daya tarik yang dapat dikatakan tidak pernah terpuaskan, kami selalu menantikan koleksi-koleksi baru yang menawarkan kedua gaya ini, tetapi sering kali kedua gaya ini dipersepsikan sebagai dua aliran yang sangat berbeda, jikalau anda sedang berpakaian street-wear, well anda akan terlihat begitu kasual, dan jikalau anda menggunakan pakaian yang tailored anda akan terkesan begitu over the top. Sehingga sering kali kedua gaya ini sulit dipadukan dalam sebuah koleksi yang cohesive, oleh karena itu di saat-saat seperti ini kami selalu berusaha untuk mencari merek-merek lokal yang berhasil memadukan kedua nuansa gaya tersebut, sebuah percintaan dan percampuran antara gaya street-wear dan tailored looks yang dipersembahakan bagi anda semua, para pecinta gaya urban yang mature. Jan/Sober merek lokal Indonesia, dapat dikatakan telah secara konsisten sejak tahun 2009 memadukan kedua gaya tersebut. Layaknya seorang bartender atau seorang mixologist yang mencapur padukan beberapa tipe minuman dan membuatnya begitu nikmat, Jan/Sober telah berhasil memadukan dua gaya tipe pakaian yang kami cintai tersebut dengan harmonis dan dengan daya tarik yang begitu memikat layaknya segelas cocktail yang nikmat. Ya, Jan/Sober the mixologist of urban street-wear. You could see their products and stockist right here and here.

You could see the demure silhouettes that Jan/Sober uses, some of you probably thinks that in some ways it looks too simple but that is what we think is their primary appeal. All of the shirts and jackets uses basic oxford shirt silhouette and double breasted jacket designs that are not too tailored, they do not fit to your body too tightly, or having too much detailing and heavy shoulder paddings on it, all the tailored look are made casual and urban. This is their spring summer 2012 collection, and may we say that it hits all the right mod and trend style appeal, tapered trousers in multi color tone (that they rolled up, to give a little edge), loose fitting shirts and jackets with color blocking, and patch-work here and there in soft color, and even a little sense of vintage by the usage of demure patterns and designs that made the pieces look like they came from the 80's or 70's (which is in right now, with all the hawaiian floral prints people are rocking). In other words, these simple tailored silhouettes babies are made casual and down to earth by loose fitting forms and following mod styles. Mixing it up, flaring it up.   

Kalian bisa melihat siluet yang dipergunakan oleh Jan/Sober, seluruh koleksi mereka di dominasi oleh siluet yang sederhana dan demure. Mungkin beberapa dari kalian melihatnya terlalu simple, terlalu sederhana dan terlihat tidak well made, di sanalah anda salah, karena gaya kasual dari siluet oxford dan jacket yang ada inilah yang memberikan daya tarik pada koleksi mereka. Kemeja dengan siluet oxford shirts yang sederhana, jackets dengan double breast yang tidak begitu pas dengan tubuh dan konstruksi bahu yang rileks, membuat pakaian yang terkadang terlihat terlalu tailored menjadi sederhana dan sangat urban. Koleksi musim ini mereka mengeluarkan begitu banyak pakaian dengan pengikutan arah tren yang ada, celana tapered dalam berbagai warna, color blocking dalam kemeja yang ada, patch-work yang dipergunakan dalam kemeja dan jackets, bahkan gaya vintage dari penggunaan pola kemeja yang terlihat begitu tahun 80-an dan 70-an. 

It's a sin not to share the savviness of these indie talents with the rest of the world.

So. Feel free to explore.exploit.and express your brain out.

explore.exploit.express

i.s.1707